Bourgeois & Maurice - Click on image to view video

We love London for its theatre and fashion. We love England for its humour and we are really craving to be there today for the opening of Théâtre des Bouffes du Nord at the Barbican, directed by the amazing Peter Brook. Starting today, the Barbican Theatre is dedicating their Directorspective to Peter Brook–exploring and celebrating his work in theatre and film. Théâtre des Bouffes du Nord runs Feb 5th –27th.

On Valentine’s Day the fabulously wicked cabaret stars Bourgeois & Maurice will ”reveal a glimmer into their stony old hearts” as they perform alongside The Irrepressible (Jonny Woo & Ruby Blues). The performance is called St. Valentines Day Massacre. Fabwick is sad to miss that too, as we’ll be in New York for Fashion Week. We’re completely obsessed with Bourgeois & Maurice. Visit their website and listen to Don’t Go To Art School. The song makes you want to throw a party in your boudoir and invite all your tranny friends over for a champagne bash (I’m just saying – that’s the feeling I create when I listen to it over and over…).

Another reason for craving London – the Lanvin Boutique on Mount Street has yet to be visited by Fabwick. My love for Lanvin is very Vladimir, in Waiting For Godot – I mean where do you go from here? You can’t go back after selling your soul to the creation of Alber Elbaz for Lanvin.

Duncan Quinn

Duncan Quinn clearly has a strong view for what encompasses the Duncan Quinn lifestyle: bringing every real gentleman’s sport a dashing wardrobe. This London born and bred designer behind the Savile Row style suit and bespoke clothing, has just unveiled the Croquet Shirt for $105. It can be found online at www.duncanquinn.com and in the New York, L.A. and Dallas stores. Mr. Quinn took a moment from full days (and nights) of accepting retainers, exclusive suiting, and entertaining New York City, to explain what is in his immediate future.

S.B. for Fabwick
For the record, how was it seeing your jackets being worn by Brett and Jermaine on Flight of the Conchords in the video for Season 2’s, “I Told You I Was Freekie”? Sean Combs, Adrien Grenier (of Entourage), Lebron James, and Green Day also wore your clothes. Did you ever think Duncan Quinn would have such a diverse following of stylish well-dressed fellows?

D.Q.
The odd thing is, I don’t own a TV so I didn’t see them, but they are all great guys and it’s always a pleasure to see them in the store in NY when they’re in town.

S.B. for Fabwick
What made you decide to do the Croquet Shirt? I’m totally obsessed with it, by the way…

D.Q.
We just figured it would be a good addition and would mean we could do our interpretation of this classic piece. It took a long time to get it right and each one is limited to small runs and custom dyed (even the buttons are custom-made to match color). They turned out great and are selling very, very well with people using them to relax, as well as play golf, sail, polo and croquet, of course.

S.B. for Fabwick
I am still wearing the incredible red trousers from your Fall ‘07 collection. I, as well as many other men, am wondering, are you considering expanding your label into a lavish sportswear collection?

D.Q.
It’s a matter of time. It takes a long time to find the right artisans to make what we want, the way we want it. It’s a slow process. There are other items in the works though.

S.B. for Fabwick
What would be the aesthetic behind the sportswear collection if one should be brought about?

D.Q.
Steve McQueen in the original Thomas Crowne Affair, or Sean Connery on the golf course in Goldfinger.

S.B. for Fabwick
With the reopening of your L.A. store and everything bespoke, tell me what’s up your 12-star cuff-linked sleeve next?

D.Q.
Ah, well it might be a close shave among other things, but who knows.

A gentleman never tells. He only leaves it to the imagination. Let’s just hope Duncan Quinn doesn’t keep us waiting too much longer.

Shahcar Blake for Fabwick

Fabwick (F) Erna (E)

F: I love your bio on your website. It’s so Icelandic and honest, particularly the work experience. You include ‘non-fashion’ jobs like the hospital and the ‘Man Alive’ health food/restaurant (one of my favorite eateries in Reykjavik). Do you think Icelandic artists are more raw and honest than American artists?

E: I think the reason for me never really having a job in fashion is that there are so few jobs in fashion here in Iceland and very few intern positions. I can´t imagine that there are more than maybe 5 intern positions here in fashion and most companies don´t hire designers. It´s more like designers start their own companies and then, of course, design for their own labels. My work experience is pretty funny and yes, very un-fashion, but I study fashion and I think about it so much, so having a job doing something totally unrelated can be good. It gives you new experiences, new inspirations and you meet different kinds of people. If there is some difference in how Icelandic artists express themselves compared to American artists, then maybe we are just less afraid to say what we want without having to think too much about offending someone or thinking that we will be judged for our words or work. I think there is a lot of tolerance here in Iceland and that gives artists freedom to push the boundaries. Not that I think that I am pushing some boundaries, I am just saying in general, maybe we are just more free here in Iceland…less serious and more open-minded. I think there is a lot of humor in Icelandic art.

But in the end it just depends on each artist individually. I don´t think honesty and rawness necessarily comes from your nationality, it´s personal.

F: When I contacted you and asked where you are selling your collection and you said, “I’m not selling it yet”, I couldn’t help but smile because again, it sounds so very honest. When you were designing it, didn’t you expect people to come to you and ask to buy your pieces?

E: Well, honestly, no. I really didn’t think my collection would get as much attention as it has. I always knew that I was doing something special, especially with the textiles, but I don´t think anyone expects success. I can just say that I am happy to get so much positive feedback. It builds up the longing to create more, to show that this is just the beginning.

F: Your inspiration for your collection came from Icelandic protesters during the economic collapse. Were you there observing it and do you want to talk about this new era Iceland faces?

E: I was in Amsterdam almost all last winter so I basically observed from afar and through the internet. I think that was the reason for why I found the whole thing so interesting, l wanted to experience it but could not. Maybe this collection was my contribution to the protests. I think that if I had been in Iceland, maybe I wouldn’t have been so inspired. But when you just see images and look at the people in the crowd, you kind of want to understand what they are feeling. I felt like I was so far from being a part of what was going on that I had to kind of use this way to participate and give something back through the clothes. It sounds kind of strange when I think about it, but it was all about capturing that new atmosphere. I wanted to capture the raw power and the attitude.

F: Can you tell me about the idea of the Icelandic woman who finds her new identity? And is she the woman/girl that you see wearing your clothes?

E: Before I started designing this collection I read about the Icelandic national costume. It has a very interesting story. I like the idea of the costume to represent an ideology. The old costume was supposed to help Iceland in its fight for independence. The women who wore the costume represented the nation and its national heritage. And when a lot of women would wear the costume it would show that Iceland was unified, one language, one nation, one culture.

When I saw the protests I felt like now we needed a new ‘national costume’. I saw some people carrying protest signs that said ‘Iceland 1944-2008’ and I think in some ways this economic fall resulted in the loss of our independence. It felt right to create a new national costume, but something totally different because it´s like 100 years since the old costume was created. We needed something new for this fight. This new woman is much rawer and…well…hardcore with an elegant flair. She is not so polite and well put together as the old version. She is angrier, frustrated…a bit messed up.

This woman is a metaphor for the Icelandic public, specifically the people who were at the protests, the spirit at the protests. But if a woman, in reality, is willing to carry 3 kilos of chains on her shoulders then she is the woman for me.

F: I think that your collection is so completely original. If a designer comes to mind that has any resemblance, it would be the Rodarte sisters. Have you heard that before?

E: I absolutely love the Rodarte sisters. Their story is like a fairytale. I follow their work religiously. It´s just amazing. No one has told me that my work resembles theirs but I think that’s a big compliment…so thank you. Their textiles are so beautifully strange and every collection feels fresh and innovative–something totally new. I always think that if they worked somewhere closer to Iceland, like in London or Paris, I would do almost anything to be an intern at their company. But going to Los Angeles (or Pasadena) is a bit more complicated.

F: What about that crazy denim shoe? I’m all over it. Will you be producing it?

E: I wish! If a shoe company would call me and tell me that they wanted to produce my shoes then I would jump at the chance. But for now I only have 2 handmade pairs. They are just an illusion–a kind of ‘cut and paste’ version of the shoe I had in my mind. I think as a design student I am not too busy with figuring out ways to produce my stuff. For now I am busy with school, so this collection is just a ‘teaser’ for things to come. I do hope that when I move to London, I will get a chance to make some more of the pieces in the collection. I will see how that goes in the fall.

F: So you are moving to London. What’s happening there for you?

E: I am starting my MA in Fashion at Central Saint Martins.

F: How do you like Iceland?

E: I like Iceland a lot, thank you very much.

F: What do you think about Icelandic men? Do you think that they are clueless of personal space, insecure and wear too much cologne?

E: Haha…That’s a pretty funny statement and the first thing I thought was: ‘That is a Dutch man, not an Icelandic one” (sorry to Dutch men, they are pretty handsome if you take away the hair-gel and cologne). I don´t think I have ever thought about Icelandic men that way. Well, hmm…I have an Icelandic man that never wears cologne (after I told him to stop), and he is secure and fine-looking. I think it´s horrible when men wear so much cologne. Why do they do that?

F: Will you design my dress when I do my first red carpet? I’m not sure when it is or what it’s for, but I hope to have one soon…

E: Yes, I would love to! It would probably be different from the rest of the gala gowns but you would definitely stand out–for better or for worse. And you would have to take me to the after party.

- For more information about the designer visit Erna’s website www.ernaeinars.com